New 18th century Stays and Pocket Hoops

I am so pleased to share my new stays and pocket hoops! Even though I have done one set of stays before, this felt like the first time all over again as I used a completely different pattern and materials. I will warn that I did not follow all the instructions exactly and I did use my machine for half the construction (my trusty Singer 401a has not let me down yet).

I used the Redthreaded Georgian Stays pattern in pdf form. I wanted back lacing stays with a basic shape. I liked the lines on this one and figured I could modify by adding more boning channels if I wanted (because why follow the pattern when I can make things more difficult). You choose your pattern based on measurements and as expected, the pdf came together easily. I did a mock up with cardboard then went right to work.

I read through the instructions and opted for layers in drill, linen and a white cotton as the outer layer. It is not 18th century inspired at all, but I like it anyway. I was more interested in the idea of the white on white design with pink binding than accuracy.

 I will always take the opportunity to fussy cut fabric when given the chance

I added four more boning channels to the front piece and a couple to the sides. The pattern recommends straight steel for boning but I opted for heavy duty zip ties. Next time, I will try synthetic whalebone because I keep hearing such good things. I kept the shape and tabs of the original pattern. I didn't want to mess with things too much since I am still a beginner. The eyelets were hand sewn because why not! I was reckless and barely practiced before doing them on the stays. So while I am very proud I completed useable eyelets they are small. Very small. So small that I had trouble getting the lacing through and had to use ribbon!

Finally I was almost done. When people say that binding tabs is not easy that is not an understatement. Even though I had done it in the past (and even bound stays for a friend), this time did not go any smoother. I used a pretty light pink cotton binding. The pattern suggested adding the straps after binding but I wanted a different look, so I attached the straps before doing any binding. I hand sewed the binding to the front first, then wrapped it around to the back and whipstitched by hand into place. As a result, my binding looks better on the inside than outside I think. I did pink binding on the side seams as well. I have noticed it in several recreations and it definitely helps with durability.

I did take some pictures of the stays flat but really, they are meant to be worn, so here they are over my poor shift (mended four times, I am surprised it has survived so long). I am altogether happy with the fit. There are some things I will change next time. I feel they are just a little bit too long waisted. I did cut the tabs a bit higher but I think I need to readjust and shift the whole thing so the entire length is shorter. This is not the pattern's fault at all. I am a mere 5'1 tall and used to modifying due to my height. I should have paid closer attention when doing the mock up and learned my lesson (mistakes are never really mistakes if you learn from them. Or, this is what I tell myself after working for a month on a project).

Oh and the pocket hoops! Can't forget those. The pocket hoops were made using the book The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking. The book focuses on hand sewing and while I will probably try in the future, this time I used my trusty 401a to construct the hoops and the old standy by, heavy duty zip ties. 

The pocket hoops go together fast. Or they do if you actually read through the instructions instead of being distracted by An American in Paris on your tv. I finished them only to realize that I had forgotten to attach the ties to the inside, creating the actual shape. Not my finest hour. I admit I spent a good two hours stressed out before I realized. Oops. After that fiasco, they were done and I was ready for the main attraction - the robe a la francaise.

Betty modeling the stays and pocket hoops.