This post will detail the construction of my Ikea Italian gown. The next one will cover accessories, hair and shoes!
I made my first robe a l'anglaise last July 2017 for my first historical event. I used a Simplicity pattern that I modified heavily to create a pink silk taffeta gown with a zone front. I was very proud that I successfully completed the outfit and wore it twice.
My very first 18th century outfit, a zone front robe a l'anglaise. I made shift, stays, petticoat, the whole shebang!
For my second attempt I decided to go all in and self draft and hand sew. The Ikea gown is a popular creation in the historical costuming world (you can check out the ever growing list here) and I decided on the stenort duvet. This proved tricky as the duvet was only floral on one side. I advise choosing another print if you want a matching petticoat! The Ikea textiles are great - cotton 18th century floral designs and affordable. I looked at several examples to get a better idea (I was also inspired by Rococo Atelier). You can see an explanation of gown styles at the American Duchess Blog. A center back seam with two side back seams, many times with more. There is a pointed back and a front closing bodice.
Two lovely examples. Note a lack of trim. Cotton was a very expensive fabric and they kept things simple.
The first thing I did was look at the pattern drawings in both the American Duchess book and Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashions. I then read through the directions to hand sew in the American Duchess book. I didn't want to complicate things so I only did one main back side seam (you can do several, which look spectacular but I needed to stay simple). I drew a quick mock up and created a muslin. Which turned out....not good.
In my head it turned out beautifully. In reality, not so much. Yes, that is indeed the fabric from The World's Ugliest Pocket.
It took three tries to get the back point that I wanted but it worked! I did mock up of front as well and tried it on over my stays.
Nice smooth fit. Yes! I then went back and elongated the back point.
Once I was satisfied with the back, I cut out everything in white mid weight linen. This would be my lining and the base for my gown. Using 18th century technique, I used shoulder straps to adjust fit. This proved to be extremely helpful. What was not helpful? Not having a mannequin I could fit on. Every time I needed to check fit I had to put back on my stays and stand in front of the mirror. By the fourth fitting this got really old and I ended up in my stays sewing most of the bodice. Let's just say I was very committed to being period correct. I used the split bum pad from my pink zone front gown and my simple white petticoat to smooth things out.
Fitting the lining over my stays then once again with the ikea fabric sewn on top
I constructed the lining entirely first then cut the ikea fabric out. I hand sewed the ikea fabric back and front bodice to the lining and then cut out three panels for the skirt. The center at 60 inches and a panel on either side at 40 inches. I wanted a nice full skirt that I could wear en retrousse. I sewed the three panels together using the mantua maker seam. It was exciting to learn new techniques, I love a clean inside! I hand pleated and attached the skirt by laying the bodice on top of the skirt and hand sewing through it all. Never have I appreciated a thimble more. Especially when I lost it halfway through. But it was worth it for such a nice back (it's cool, it only took two weeks for my middle finger to fully heal). The American Duchess book says to cut a slit in center of back skirt and fold down the excess. It is a bit odd to just leave the skirt edges out but I appreciate the reason why. Being able to go back and adjust is nice. You can see a great description here of how to fold it back, as I forgot to take pictures.
One side stitched down, one to go. Look at that nice deep v back!
I also opted to hand sew tiny pin prick stiches down the back seams to reinforce and added boning to the center seam. I think it creates a much smoother back and I wanted it to stay put.
Once the gown body was done I turned to the sleeves, I am extremely proud of them as I self drafted. They are slim (unlined because I didn't want the extra layer once it got hot outside) but not too tight and hit right below my elbow where I wanted them to. I set the sleeves in to the lining with only two very tiny pleats towards the back. I then went back and sewed the ikea fabric down over them.
Next I tackled the petticoat. I went to the fabric store and could not decide between a bright cherry red and a deep golden bronze. I took home the cherry red and sewed it up, making sure to level the bottom due to the bum pad. Once on I just did not love it. So back I went to the store to purchase the bronze. I also grabbed some wonderful cotton and silk blend sheer voile and some fake flowers. I used 3 1/4 yards for the width of the petticoat and leveled it by putting it on over the bum pad and marking the hem in front so it did not dip down. In the end, I think I removed 3 inches from the front hem. I sewed the pleated petticoat to my linen tape, making a basic 18th century petticoat.
In all, I spent a good three weeks making my Italian gown by hand. I am so happy I did't rush this time. I even had time to sew in tiny loops 4 inches from the bottom of the skirt at the panel seams and two linen strings so I could "bustle" them up. I hand sewed the seams on both the gown skirt and petticoat and I truly love how it looks. I have worn the gown three times now and it is comfortable and holding up nicely. Definitely a success! In my next post, I will go over the finishing touches, including a short hair tutorial and showing off my American Duchess shoes (they really inspired my gown and are my favorite part)!
Close up look at back bodice
Once the gown body was done I turned to the sleeves, I am extremely proud of them as I self drafted. They are slim (unlined because I didn't want the extra layer once it got hot outside) but not too tight and hit right below my elbow where I wanted them to. I set the sleeves in to the lining with only two very tiny pleats towards the back. I then went back and sewed the ikea fabric down over them.
Look at that sleeve! You can also see how effective that split bum pad is.
Next I tackled the petticoat. I went to the fabric store and could not decide between a bright cherry red and a deep golden bronze. I took home the cherry red and sewed it up, making sure to level the bottom due to the bum pad. Once on I just did not love it. So back I went to the store to purchase the bronze. I also grabbed some wonderful cotton and silk blend sheer voile and some fake flowers. I used 3 1/4 yards for the width of the petticoat and leveled it by putting it on over the bum pad and marking the hem in front so it did not dip down. In the end, I think I removed 3 inches from the front hem. I sewed the pleated petticoat to my linen tape, making a basic 18th century petticoat.
The red DOES look pretty. The bronze looks prettier. Amazing how the petticoat can change the overall look!
In all, I spent a good three weeks making my Italian gown by hand. I am so happy I did't rush this time. I even had time to sew in tiny loops 4 inches from the bottom of the skirt at the panel seams and two linen strings so I could "bustle" them up. I hand sewed the seams on both the gown skirt and petticoat and I truly love how it looks. I have worn the gown three times now and it is comfortable and holding up nicely. Definitely a success! In my next post, I will go over the finishing touches, including a short hair tutorial and showing off my American Duchess shoes (they really inspired my gown and are my favorite part)!
The skirt en retrousse and a sneak peak of the fabulous shoes
