1860's Ravenclaw

I finally am able to sit down and write about my first Victorian emsemble! I will start by admitting that mid 19th century fashion construction is not something I am overly familiar with. That being said, when two friends asked me to attend the local Dicken's Fair I figured now was as good of a time as any to learn some more. So off I went to the fabric store, where I quickly found a lovely sapphire blue silk that wanted to come home. I started looking at images of day dresses and decided I want something simple because time was not on my side and I had no clue what I was doing. A long sleeve bodice with piping, a lace collar and the classic full skirt. In the end, this project became a huge learning experience for me.

                  

Two  mid 19th century examples that I used as inspiration. Note the dropped sleeves, lace collars and v waist detail. 

I began with the Truly Victorian 4446 digital e-pattern for the bodice as I didn't trust myself to draft and I wanted an accurate look. The digital copy was great! Download was fast, I taped and cut it out in no time. I luckily fit right into the sizing. I modified by narrowing the sleeve, creating a v in front and slight v shape in back.  Here was when I encountered error number one- I did my muslin out of a cotton with a bit of stretch. I thought the back laid nicely and so I went forward and cut the silk and put it together. It wasn't until the sleeves were on and it was almost complete that I realized the back was not fitting as well as I would like. Lesson learned.

                                 

         Back and side shots. I know how to correct the issues but it will have to wait for next time! I changed the shape of the bottom of bodice, creating a slight v to emphasize my waist and create some extra details.

As I started to put together the bodice I had to sort out my piping. I looked at the blue more and it suddenly came to me - RAVENCLAW blue! I had some bronze silk hidden in my closet that was enough for piping. Suddenly the dress became much more exciting. I did a faux button front with a hidden hook and eye closure. Next time I definitely want real buttonholes. Then error number two struck, naturally after I had attached the piping and sleeves were on. I did not do enough research on 1860's dress construction before starting. Piping of the time is quite narrow. Especially compared to modern piping. Oh well. At this point I was too far in and the piping looked so nice! I figured that I was coming from the wizarding world anyway so a bit of difference would be just fine. 

Front of bodice with my bronze piping (yes it is bronze, my photos came out a bit bright so we can just pretend it's a nice bornze-y hue)

The petticoat and skirt were simply pleated. I did little knife pleats that became smaller towards the back. I ended up doing a 6 yard skirt (oh my!) which in retrospect was not needed. My favorite part is my wand pocket. It came in handy to hold gloves as well and my wand fit perfectly. Error number three did not become apparent until I was in merry Dicken's London. My skirt was too big at the waist! It made the hem drag and I spent most of the fair hiking up the waist (most unladylike). Thankfully I did a nice wide hem and the skirt was fine with some light dusting after the event. My petticoat construction followed the free tutorial from Truly Victorian and did a good job of hiding the hoop bones.

The handy wand pocket - So roomy! So discreet!

A nice look at the full effect, minus my accessories. Even though I don't think it is technically period correct, I really do like my tiny knife pleats. 

For accessories, I got a beautiful navy and bronze shawl, a cameo, soft white kid gloves, a lovely lace collar from one of my wonderful friends, a fabulous Ravenclaw embroidered reticule (with the crest from the movies just to have all bases covered) from wonderful friend number two and the item that almost broke me- a bonnet. I knew I needed something on my head, I just did not have time to order anything. After 2 tries to build the bonnet from scratch, I took a 1950's cap and added a brim then covered the whole thing in silk. Some floral decoration and ribbon and my bonnet magically appeared. I definitely need to get some books on millinery and practice, as I discovered that the right bonnet makes the outfit. In addition, I just love headgear. I must have tried on at least 4 different items at the fair and wanted everything!

        Please forgive the lack of the shawl. It was being cleaned during the photoshoot. But look at that first time bonnet!

All in all, I am extremely glad I pushed myself to do something so new. It was great to attend the fair and I learned so much about construction and what I can do to improve. I am still pleased with how everything turned out. The wand was great fun to pose with and I managed to walk in the hoops despite the too long hem!

The three of us in our very serious Victorian poses. Don't we look fantastic?!

       One successful time traveling picture for the Ministry of Magic and one with a stroller photobomb (muggles, what can you do?!)

      

      I had great fun playing with the pictures

                       

          I really did love the way the dress looked in black and white. 

                         

1930s Inspired Velvet Dress

1930s velvet evening dresses are always stunning in their deceiving simplicity. I was struck by the how lovely the silhouette was and liked the idea of a solid velevt gown. I definitely love the wide gathered sleeves.

        

Two of my favorite examples. Thanks Pinterest! Velvet,check. Full sleeve,check. Waist panel, check.

I have worked with stretch velvet before and when I saw the new Simplicity Vintage 8504 I jumped at the chance to recreate a similar look in four way stretch velvet. I wanted a similar silhouette but with a modern twist. Something stylish yet comfortable to wear to the theater.

Notice the fabulous fabric belt and darling collar. They did a good job styling this one

I started with a basic knit bodice pattern. In this case, the Boundless from Pattern for Pirates. I widened the neckline and raised it. I then dropped the back into a low v.  I still followed the instructions to fully line rather than use a facing, something I prefer as it gives the bodice more structure.

Simple, clean neckline thanks to the fully lined bodice. Also, check out those gorgeous Dames a la Mode earrings I had received while making the dress!

 I also added a fun element to the front bodice, cutting out a curved piece on the front then simply serging it back on. I regret not making my top bodice a looser fit so I could create a gathering at the bottom. Next time!

                

           

Low back and curve detail on front bodice piece

For the sleeves,  I measured from shoulder to elbow to get the first piece. I placed the sleeve piece away from the fold to create a wide sleeve base.

Yes, an artichoke and bird acted as paperweights

I then ran a gathering stitch at both top and bottom of the wide sleeve. I wanted the fullness on the top of the shoulder only. 

The final portion of sleeve construction was to measure elbow to wrist and create essentially a tube of fabric. I measured around the widest part of my forearm and made it a bit more snug. This way the fullness of the top portion of the sleeve would be more noticeable. I attached the gathered top sleeve portion to both the shoulder and the tube.

                   

                              I love the way the sleeve looks from the side. I did a flat lay so you can see construction a bit better

For the skirt, I did a half circle skirt. The nap of the stretch velvet is great in that it hid the seams. The nap of the stretch velvet isnt great in that if you arent paying attention, you cut the skirt with the nap in two different directions and do not realize until reviewing pictures! Thankfully it isn't extremely noticeable, but I learned a valuable lesson.

                                                 
All in all, it was a fairly easy project and I had a new dress to wear to the ballet. I accessorized with a deep side part in my hair and a fun brooch that I turned into a hairclip thanks to the hot glue gun. The stretch velvet is very comfortable and I am happy with how the sleeves drape. I am already planning a pink version. Have you ever turned a vintage pattern into something more modern with stretch fabric? Let me know in the comments!

Introduction

Welcome to La Dauphine!

My name is Sara and I am starting this blog to both share some tutorials and track my progress as I explore historical costuming and cosplay. My background is in art history with a concentration in portrait miniatures. I have studied in both the United States and England.  I am a self taught seamstress with 9 years of experience.

You can also follow me on instagram @ladauphinecostuming.